Focused on the United States
Fashion is more than about just looking good; it is a powerful way for people to express themselves. Throughout history, fashion has been used as a tool in politics, helping to shape public opinion and influence society.
Throughout history, fashion has not only reflected societal values, but has also acted as a form of political resistance and a tool for protest. In the ancient world and medieval world, clothing signified your class, trade, social status, religious or regional affiliation. Clothing was part of a caste system that let the world know who owned you and reminded you of your place in that world. Clothing was hierarchical and patriarchal. The use of fashion as a political statement against the weight of tradition and authority can be traced back to the French Revolution in 1789 when red, white and blue, borrowed from the American Revolution, became a powerful symbol of solidarity with the rebellious Third Estate and the Revolution. It was shorthand for “liberty, equality and fraternity” as well as “the republic.” People stopped being peasants and subjects, they’d become “Citizens.” Those who wore the cockades, a type of decorative ribbon, signified their support for the movement, while those who chose not to wear them were seen as enemies of the Revolution and threatened with the guillotine. Wearing a certain style of clothing became a way of saying, “I’m with you!” as well as “I’m not going to stand for the way things are.” The privileges of the aristocratic wig and legging gave way to the democratized tradesman’s suits, ties and coveralls.
In the same way, conquered people lost their traditional garb and identity. The indigenous rights movements have reclaimed some of those stolen identities through the resurgence of indigenous, native or pre-colonial designs. The parliamentary salt and pepper suits of Great Britain would eventually yield to the “Nehru” designs of independent India.
Resistance in fashion is about using style and clothing as a powerful tool to push back against societal pressures-be they cultural, political, economic, or environmental. It’s about making statements that challenge, liberate or bring attention to issues at hand, often acting as a form of protest or defiance against dominant norms, political systems, or oppressive structures. This has been evident throughout history, especially in movements such as the women’s suffrage movement, where fashion became a key form of political resistance.
During the 1920s in the United States, fashion played an important role in the Women’s Suffrage Movement. The suffragists, primarily white women fighting for the right to vote, chose white bloomers as a symbol of resistance and unity. However, Black women were excluded from this symbolism. Many Black women had been forced to wear pants during slavery, so for them, the white pants did not carry the same empowering meaning. Later on, white dresses — and eventually the color white itself — became a political symbol for the Women’s Suffrage Movement and a representation of solidarity between women in general. The suffragists, primarily from middle-class backgrounds, used fashion as a way to express respectability, as the era’s culture ideals often tied a woman’s worth and morals to her outward appearance. By choosing white dresses, they were not just advocating for the right to vote but also to counter anti-suffrage accusations that women who sought the right to vote were morally corrupt. White signaled their alignment with middle-class values of decorum, purity, and respectability.
However this emphasis on respectability did not extend to all women equally. While white suffragists used clothing to project an image of dignity, Black women in the movement- such as Ida B. Wells, who fought for both women’s suffrage and racial justice— were often forced to navigate the complexities of race and class in ways their white counterparts did not. For Black women, clothing could be both a form of resistance and survival. They had long understood how fashion could communicate their social status, but they also had to navigate pervasive racial stereotypes that worked against them. Their clothing choices were for that reason more careful, often carrying layers of meaning related to both their racial identity and their activism. This shift in symbolism, from bloomers to white dresses, also signified a shift from the “traditional women” to the “new woman” of the early 20th century. The “new women” was characterized by increased independence and more comfortable clothing. The change from corsets and heavy layers to shorter skirts, shorter hair, and looser garments marked a break from traditional women, from the idealized Victorian view of womanhood that had been confined to the home. The new woman was politically engaged, active in the workforce, and participated in social, political, and cultural shifts of the time. Overall there was a tension between the desire for empowerment and freedom and the continued pressure of social expectations that women faced, especially in terms of how they were seen in the public sphere. For the new women, clothing became a tool of self-expression and political power, but it also still had to be carefully manipulated in order to fit into social standards, and not be too oppositional. Fashion, particularly in political movements, can hold vastly different meanings depending on one’s background.
The 1920s, known as the Jazz Age, marked a period of rebellion against traditional norms, particularly in fashion, music, and social behavior. The “flapper” style, known for its short skirts, bobbed hair, and more free silhouettes, symbolized womens growing independence and rejection of modesty culture. Jazz emerged among African American communities, jazz was deeply rooted in Black musical traditions. As it gained popularity among white audiences, some saw this as a threat to established cultural norms and color lines. So for that reason especially, participating in this type of fashion was a form of political resistance. This era was significantly influenced by Black women’s fashion, which celebrated vibrant styles, intricate beadwork, and expressive dance movements rooted in the Harlem Renaissance. Black Jazz musicians and dancers such as Josephine Baker, not only redefined entertainment but also introduced aesthetics that flappers emulated, from fringed dresses that enhanced movement to bold accessories that embodied the spirit of modernity. Baker’s performances, especially her “Danse sauvage” in a banana skirt, challenged conventional notions of race and gender, leaving a lasting impact on fashion and culture. Additionally, the accessibility of ready-to-wear clothing and department stores allowed fashion trends to spread rapidly across racial and socioeconomic lines. Historians argue that this era represented both a cultural revolution and form of appropriation, as mainstream society often overlooked the contributions of Black designers and artists while adopting their styles. The Jazz Age shows both progress and tensions and women of all backgrounds challenged societal expectations through self expression and style.
Fashion as a symbol of political resistance can also be seen throughout the 20th century. During the Great Depression, class divides became starkly visible through the fashion of the wealthy versus the poor. During this time period, the rich got richer, and the poor got poorer, so while the elite wore increasingly extravagant garments, the working class was forced to get creative. Women made clothes for their families out of food sacks and repurposed fabric to suit their needs. This fashion became a visual representation of the economic disparity between the “haves” and the “have-nots.” Photographers like Dorothea Lange, Margaret Bouke-White, and Walker Evans documented this era, capturing images of torn, second-hand, and faded clothing that starkly represented the class divide. Additionally, the emergence of women wearing uniforms and coveralls indicated new roles in the workforce, challenging traditional gender norms and expanding avenues for women’s participation in society.
During World War II, women entered the workforce in unprecedented numbers, taking on roles that were traditionally occupied by men. As women took on these positions, their clothing adapted accordingly. They began wearing what had once been considered men’s attire — pants, overalls, suits, and workwear — as they performed jobs essential to the war effort. Initially, their transition into the workforce was met with resistance, but this shift in women’s fashion symbolized a broader transformation within society. During this period, clothing also became a symbol of patriotism, with many garments featuring the colors of the American flag — red, white and blue.
One of the most iconic fashion statements of this era was the Zoot suit, which became popular amongst Black Americans and other communities of color during the Harlem Renaissance. The oversized, extraverted suit, made from wool, became a symbol of rebellion against white middle-class values and racism. However, as the war effort began to intensify, the Zoot suit was condemned by the U.S. government as wasteful. Eventually, this clash between the U.S. government and young people of color wearing these clothes led to the Zoot Suit riots in Los Angeles, which targeted Mexican American youth. As a result, the Zoot Suit became a lasting symbol of non-conformity and resistance against racial and political oppression.
The 1950s ushered in a return to traditional gender roles in the aftermath of World War II, as fashion began to reflect a backward shift to a more patriarchal and polished ideal. The rise of the polished housewife aesthetic, backed by many popular brands like Dior, reinforced the cultural narrative in America that women were expected to embrace modesty and subservience. However, this didn’t last long, as the 1960s brought a revolutionary change — protest fashion. The Civil Rights Movement and the fight for racial justice inspired Black Americans to wear their “Sunday Best,” a reference to what Black communities wore to church and protests. These outfits, inspired by Martin Luther King Jr., were chosen to show that Black Americans deserved dignity and respect, serving as a form of political protest to assert Black communities’ demand for equality and human rights in the face of systematic racism.
The 1960s saw fashion as an increasingly powerful tool of protest. Here there were times when others deliberately dressed in more “humble” practical attire. Students, particularly young Black Americans and others who wanted to demonstrate solidarity—showing unity and support for the collective struggle for civil rights—adopted denim overalls as a unform of rebellion in their fight for justice. This “humble” garment became a symbol of resistance, as well as an emblem of defiance against a society that relegated them to second-class status.
On a global scale, coming out of the aftermath of World War ll, the black beret became a symbol of resistance, originally worn by the French resistance, became adopted by intellectuals like Jean-Paul Sartre and Albert Camus, and later spread to American college campuses in the late 1950s. The beret, along with the Black turtleneck, became strongly associated with existentialism and growing counterculture movements in the United States, including the Beats. This then evolved into the fashion of the 1960s when younger people began to curate their styles to their growing resistance to mainstream norms. The colorful, splashy psychedelic, androgynous fashion of the era was a rejection of the restrained uniform appearance of earlier decades. The visual language of the time was over the top—bright patterns, bold, flowing fabrics was defiance in itself. It wasn’t just about aesthetics— it was a declaration of freedom and individuality in the face of oppressive societal structures.
The Black Panther Party, which emerged in the 1960s, used fashion as a powerful symbol of resistance. The Party’s members donned black leather jackets, berets and sunglasses — clothes that were both practical and symbolic. These garments represented defiance against white supremacy and police brutality. The Black Panthers’ style was also designed to challenge the idea that Black people should conform to white standards. The leather jackets, often worn for practical reasons, symbolized strength and resilience. The berets, reminiscent of the French Resistance during World War ll, further emphasized their stance against authority and oppression.
The 1970s brought more dramatic changes in women’s fashion as the women’s liberation movement gained momentum. Feminists rejected traditional, restrictive clothing, embracing comfort and freedom through styles like tube tops and braless outfits. Radical feminists used fashion to break free from societal expectations, and queer women played an important role in pushing these boundaries. For example, the term “Lavender Menace” was coined by Betty Friedan, an early leader of the women’s movement, who referred to lesbians as a threat to the movement. In response, a group of queer women created and wore Lavender Menace shirts when presenting proposals that aimed to carve space for themselves within feminist movements.
The 1980s saw a shift in how women presented themselves in the workplace. Power dressing, specifically known for its shoulder-padded suit jacket, symbolized women’s growing independence and desire to be seen as equals in the corporate world. Fashion became a reflection of women’s financial autonomy, signaling their entry into the male-dominated workforce. Meanwhile, hip-hop culture was emerging in the South Bronx. No matter how successful hip-hop artists got, they would still wear “street clothes” from designers who represented the working class, using clothing to challenge the elitist fashion world. Other artists, most notably Dapper Dan, made streetwear into high fashion, challenging narratives about streetwear as a whole. These narratives often portrayed streetwear as inferior or unrefined, something that couldn’t be associated with high-end fashion. By blending luxury materials with bold, urban designs, Dapper dan not only elevated streetwear but also redefined what luxury could represent, creating a space for self-expression, identity, and cultural significance in the fashion world.
At the time, homosexuality was illegal in 49 states, which stayed true until 2003. Being openly queer was dangerous. To stay safe, rules such as the “three article rule” were invented.The rule stated that one should wear three articles of clothing that allied with their sex assigned at birth. One of the main ways queer people were “caught” for being queer was by dressing in a way that didn’t conform to standards. Ironically, queer people are still targeted the same way every way. Many individuals wanted to share that they were queer in less obvious ways to avoid discrimination, so subtle messaging was adopted, including ear piercings, Doc Martens and the white vest.
The AIDS crisis in the 1980s and 90s served as a political tool that also had an important impact on fashion. The red ribbon, which was worn in solidarity with those affected by the epidemic, became a symbol of both activism and compassion.
The 90s also saw the rise of punk fashion. Punk’s DIY spirit manifested itself in spiky hair, torn clothing and graphic tees, which embodied the anti-capitalist, anti-establishment ideals that defined the movement.
After 9/11, fashion began to reflect a heightened sense of nationalism. Wearing the American flag took on a new meaning. However,this period also saw an increase in discrimination, particularly against South Asian and Arab communities. Hijabi women especially faced unique challenges during this time, illustrating how what one wears can make them a target for the current political climate.
More recent moments have used fashion as a means of protest. The 2017 women’s march saw thousands wearing pink beanies.The 2018 Golden Globes showcased the “Me Too” moment on television for the first time, with many celebrities wearing black attire in alliance with victims of sexual assault. The COVID-19 pandemic further politicized fashion, with masks becoming a symbol of ideological division. Those who chose not to mask ended up associating themselves with certain political groups, even without the intention of doing so.
Public figures and everyday individuals use clothing to communicate their values, as seen when Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez otherwise known as AOC wore a “Tax the Rich” dress at the Met Gala in 2021, or similarly when Kamala Harris wore a white pantsuit during her vice presidential victory speech — an outfit that she stated aimed to honor suffragists as well as Shirley Chisholm, the first Black woman elected to the U.S. Congress and a trailblazer for women of color in politics. In 2018, Debra Haaland, the first Native American woman elected to Congress, wore a traditional Pueblo dress, necklace and boots, demonstrating her cultural pride. Marilyn Stickland, one of the first Korean-American congresswomen, wore a traditional Hanbok for her oath of office in 2020. Ilhan Omar made history in 2019 by being the first to wear a hijab in Congress.
Social media also personalizes fashion trends based on user interests and political beliefs. For instance, TikTok links fashion to different political movements, from conservatism to punk. This is true for your own identity too. If you’ve ever heard of a “side” of TikTok, you know it’s a very real thing. A side of TikTok refers to the way specific communities on the platform form around shared interests, values, or identities, creating spaces where people can express themselves freely without fear of criticism or judgement from outsiders. These “sides” offer a sense of belonging and support, allowing individuals to connect with like-minded people who understand and appreciate their views, fostering the perfect environment for personal expression and growth. Popular culture also plays a big role. Entertainers like Chappell Roan use fashion to make political statements. At the Grammys, she wore a Jean Paul Gaultier outfit inspired by the renowned French artist Edgar Degas’ paintings of ballerinas. Poor ballerinas — such as the ones depicted in Degas’ paintings — were often reliant on wealthy old patrons to survive. Roan’s outfit was likely meant to symbolize the continued struggles faced by creatives and draw attention to exploitation in the music industry. She later addressed this issue during her Grammy acceptance speech, highlighting the ongoing challenges artists face today.
The increasing visibility of non-binary and trans individuals further demonstrates the role of fashion in political expression. The act of dressing outside of societal expectations and being yourself in the face of adversity is an act of political rebellion. Transgender people face the constant tension of navigating a world where their gender identity is up for political debate. This creates a dynamic where their clothing choices are often inherently political, whether they are conforming to or rejecting societal norms.
Clothing styles of the Trump era. The “trad wife” look and the “old money” aesthetic, rather than being a celebration of tradition seem to reflect a longing for an idealized past that may never have truly existed. With their focus on modesty, and looks that mirror what was popular in the 1950s, these styles embodied a narrative of traditional family values and a desire to “Make America Great again” but they did so by painting a distorted and often reductive vision of domestic life, one that hinged on rigid gender roles and a hierarchical social order that I would argue is out of touch with the realities of modern life. The “trad wife” aesthetic, in particular, played into antiquated ideals of femininity, presenting women as devoted home makers, reinforcing the belief that their worth should be tied to domestic figures like Nara Smith and Ballerina Farm promoted as wholesome, rural lifestyle that seemed to push back against the fast paced, urban world. However this aesthetic pushed a sanitized escape from the pressures of modernity, a nostalgic refuge that in reality masked the real often difficulte, economic and social conditions many American faced. In stark contrast to the “girl boss” era that encouraged women to break through corporate ceilings, Trump-era fashion symbolized a retreat from empowerment, opting instead for a vision of stability rooted in the idea that the past was in fact stable. This longing for “old money” status and security only highlighted the growing dissonance between aspiration and reality. While many Americans live paycheck to paycheck, the desire to look affluent became a form of cultural escapism—a way to project a sense of wealth and privilege that was, for most, unattainable. At the end of the day the fashion of the Trump era was less about clothing and more about signaling a political and cultural identity. It served as a reflection of the tensions with a nation trying to reconcile its past with its present, its ideals with its realities.
